Question: I have what seems to be biofilm in my Fire Belly Newt Tank

mrbgilson

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I have treated the water properly and don't feed in the water as they are still primarily terrestrial, so I am feeding them blood worms mostly by hand (they are not great foragers yet lol ) I am removing this film daily at least. The filter is stronger than recommended for the amount of water in the tank, but reading suggests low current in the water is preferred by the newts. Should I be concerned? Any tips to remove it? New to this as I have only ever had frogs and toads. Thanks for any help.
 
Do you have a photo?
 
Do you have a photo?
I will take one in the morning for sure. The more I read they actually are probably in the Terrestrial Eft stage. they are pretty little. Considering just removing the large amount of water and redoing the setup for terrestrial until they show interest in being aquatic.
 
I let my salamanders 'dry out' for a bit, meaning their tank has little to no water only the moisture on them and from the substrate/natural moss, (sometimes I use a cut material, flannel, jersey cotton, pieces of an old pillow case [big enough to cover their head and most of their body] usually only for med/quartine tubs, to transfer if/when sick)

Also, your newts should be in a hibernating state during winter, like all other frogs, snakes and amphibians, which live in and across Canada, which means you could have too much water in the tank, if they are still active and eating they could be confused on the season.

I try to mimic the outside climate around my location inside my house/tank as much as possible, so my salamanders have actually been hibernating since mid-November, in two separate areas of my ten gallon tank with only moist substrate/natural moss and a heat lamp that is timed for the natural sunrise/sunsets in my location.

I also keep my tank temperature at the lowest my aquatic reptiles can handle which is 15 degrees Celsius.

In the wild they would be hibernating around damp Forrest floors leaf litter, bottoms of ponds, where they can tolerate very low oxygen levels but will survive only a few days if the pond becomes completely de-oxygenated.

I have a side dish(their empty food-dish) that I add fresh water too every three or four days(when I notice it's dry) and the way my tank is set up the added water falls down like a waterfall adding more oxygen into the substrate that they have been hiding in, they'll come out in spring to mate, right before they went into hibernation they ate everyday on two week diet of waxworms, they haven't eaten since, and it did fatten them up and if I do have a meal ready for when they emerge from their dens they might not eat other.

Once my duo are active again, I strip my whole tank for their spring cleaning,(which I do twice a year) plus mine have finally reached reproduction maturity and will be mating this year, and as soon as they do, they will have to be removed for the young... My little one already trys to eat my big one, not to bright but cute, I have them on the same feeding schedule but have to separate them in two completely different enclosures from time to time.

I will take one in the morning for sure. The more I read they actually are probably in the Terrestrial Eft stage. they are pretty little. Considering just removing the large amount of water and redoing the setup for terrestrial until they show interest in being aquatic.
 

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Thanks for the photo! Here is my best guess, and it is by no means meant to be authoritative. I've had something similar happen on a variety of aquariums. I have my hypotheses about what it is precisely, but no evidence per se. That said, I find that surface agitation almost invariably removes it. In tanks where I only have water pumps, I direct the flow toward the surface from the return, and if I have an air driven filter (well, I rarely get this with an air driven filter as the bubbles are quite effective at breaking up the surface layer) then i increase the air flow a bit or if it directional, I'll angle the outlet toward the larger body of water (I'll sometimes get this if the scape creates a surface flow vortex). Whatever the system, my first pass would be to create surface agitation without creating more flow, if that is undesirable. Please do let me know if this helps. If not, I'm happy to bounce some other possibilities around with you. Good luck!
 
Thanks for the photo! Here is my best guess, and it is by no means meant to be authoritative. I've had something similar happen on a variety of aquariums. I have my hypotheses about what it is precisely, but no evidence per se. That said, I find that surface agitation almost invariably removes it. In tanks where I only have water pumps, I direct the flow toward the surface from the return, and if I have an air driven filter (well, I rarely get this with an air driven filter as the bubbles are quite effective at breaking up the surface layer) then i increase the air flow a bit or if it directional, I'll angle the outlet toward the larger body of water (I'll sometimes get this if the scape creates a surface flow vortex). Whatever the system, my first pass would be to create surface agitation without creating more flow, if that is undesirable. Please do let me know if this helps. If not, I'm happy to bounce some other possibilities around with you. Good luck!
I picked up an air pump and I think that will solve it for now. Still considering switching over to a land-based set up
 
I picked up an air pump and I think that will solve it for now. Still considering switching over to a land-based set up


I don't use a water filter in my ten gallon tank ... I check on my salamanders daily and water them when needed... I also have a separate tub that I use for 'bath/swimming' just to keep my duo active, mine are lazy, spoiled and prefer more land than water ... I find I keep my tank cleaner... I use fishsafe gravel, substrate, rocks, and some natural items like moss, sticks and leaves(during breeding season) I also have a blacked out breeding den but I like giving my study pets options.

I'm still waiting for them to emerge from the substrate after their winter brumation; which started 18 weeks ago.
 
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  • Clareclare:
    Would Chinese fire belly newts be more or less inclined towards an aquatic eft set up versus Japanese . I'm raising them and have abandoned the terrarium at about 5 months old and switched to the aquatic setups you describe. I'm wondering if I could do this as soon as they morph?
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