Illness/Sickness: My axie won't eat

[OwlGirlOco]

Both of my axies developed a fungal infection before I could catch it. I was on a trip for over a week, and fed them well before leaving. I added feeder fish but I don't think the one ate any as I haven't seen him eat any before (he isn't patient enough).
Now he won't eat and either swims around agitatedly or floats at the surface. I'm treating them both with methylene blue.
Should I fridge the one that won't eat? How large of a container do I need if so (he's about 6-7 inches long)? What temperature is best for fridgeing?

 

[wolfen]

do a full water parameter test.
do you use sand as a substrate? if so make sure it is turned over regularly to prevent gas build up and to release debris.
once fungus has gone add 2g/l non-iodised salt to any water they are in to prevent re-occurrences in the future.
ensure that their tank water temperature is within ideals (15°c-18°c/59°f-64°f), and that the water is oxygenated.
fridging would be over kill at the moment as the consequences of fridging can cause organ failure, reduce temperature to 10°c/50°f at most.
what food do you normally feed them and what food have you tried.
I normally add a couple hundred river shrimp (they are like ghost shrimp) when going on holiday rather than fish.

 

[OwlGirlOco]

do a full water parameter test.
do you use sand as a substrate? if so make sure it is turned over regularly to prevent gas build up and to release debris.
once fungus has gone add 2g/l non-iodised salt to any water they are in to prevent re-occurrences in the future.
ensure that their tank water temperature is within ideals (15°c-18°c/59°f-64°f), and that the water is oxygenated.
fridging would be over kill at the moment as the consequences of fridging can cause organ failure, reduce temperature to 10°c/50°f at most.
what food do you normally feed them and what food have you tried.
I normally add a couple hundred river shrimp (they are like ghost shrimp) when going on holiday rather than fish.

I tested the water with the kit I have which tests pH, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, hardness and a few others. All were fine. I did not know you had to turn the sand. Thanks. I generally feed them pellets and occasionally mealworms, as I haven't secured a good source for other insects. I haven't tried feeding him any mealworms since he got sick because I cut them in half for him (and I don't want to do that if he won't eat it).
I will look into shrimp for future trips

 

[OwlGirlOco]

do a full water parameter test.
do you use sand as a substrate? if so make sure it is turned over regularly to prevent gas build up and to release debris.
once fungus has gone add 2g/l non-iodised salt to any water they are in to prevent re-occurrences in the future.
ensure that their tank water temperature is within ideals (15°c-18°c/59°f-64°f), and that the water is oxygenated.
fridging would be over kill at the moment as the consequences of fridging can cause organ failure, reduce temperature to 10°c/50°f at most.
what food do you normally feed them and what food have you tried.
I normally add a couple hundred river shrimp (they are like ghost shrimp) when going on holiday rather than fish.

Additionally, I see some signs of morphing in one axolotl. His tail fin is smaller and his gills look smaller too. I'm trying to keep the water parameters at good levels because this is one of the few preventative measures I've found. Any advice on this, or just try to get rid of the fungus quickly?

 

[wolfen]

axolotls when they morph go through the same changes as tiger salamanders (if you can't find much information about morphing axolotls), if your axolotl is morphing then there is no way of stopping it and trying to hinder change may cause harm.
reaction to water parameters can have same appearance as the first beginnings of morphing, eyes become more pronounced when morphing though.
add 3.5g/l non-iodised salt to their water to treat fungus, after fungus has gone reduce to 2g/l to prevent re-occurrence or use 100% holtfreters + 0.2g/l magnesium sulphate to treat and 50% holtfreters + 0.1g/l magnesium sulphate (holtfreters preferable to use as has numerous benefits) info here.. Axolotls - Requirements & Water Conditions in Captivity

 

[OwlGirlOco]

axolotls when they morph go through the same changes as tiger salamanders (if you can't find much information about morphing axolotls), if your axolotl is morphing then there is no way of stopping it and trying to hinder change may cause harm.
reaction to water parameters can have same appearance as the first beginnings of morphing, eyes become more pronounced when morphing though.
add 3.5g/l non-iodised salt to their water to treat fungus, after fungus has gone reduce to 2g/l to prevent re-occurrence or use 100% holtfreters + 0.2g/l magnesium sulphate to treat and 50% holtfreters + 0.1g/l magnesium sulphate (holtfreters preferable to use as has numerous benefits) info here.. Axolotls - Requirements & Water Conditions in Captivity

Good to know. I haven't observed bulging eyes.
What is Holtfreters and where can I find it? Currently I a using methylene blue and will be getting Itraconazole.

 

[wolfen]

holtfreters is a mix of salts/minerals it was first used to prevent fungal issues with eggs and larva but was found to be an idea solution to house axolotls in and to prevent issue that are common for axolotls ie.. fungal, edema, anaemia etc..
it has been used in the axolotl colony's, labs and universities since the 70's
the chlorides offer protection against nitrogen compound spikes ie.. ammonia, nitrites.
the solution helps correct ph whilst providing essential minerals.
the only problem is that it has to be made at home as there aren't many places that sell it.
Itraconazole has been used to treat fungal/bacterial that is resistant to holtfreters. (i've attached the article)

 

[OwlGirlOco]

holtfreters is a mix of salts/minerals it was first used to prevent fungal issues with eggs and larva but was found to be an idea solution to house axolotls in and to prevent issue that are common for axolotls ie.. fungal, edema, anaemia etc..
it has been used in the axolotl colony's, labs and universities since the 70's
the chlorides offer protection against nitrogen compound spikes ie.. ammonia, nitrites.
the solution helps correct ph whilst providing essential minerals.
the only problem is that it has to be made at home as there aren't many places that sell it.
Itraconazole has been used to treat fungal/bacterial that is resistant to holtfreters. (i've attached the article)

I read through the article, though I must say I didn't t understand it all.
I have acquired the Itraconazole, but it's not soluble in water. Have you ever used it and/or do you know how to administer it to axolotls?

 

[wolfen]

haven't used it myself but the directions are to use 0.01% for 30 minutes every five days for a total of four treatments (it does say to add straight to tank but that will damage the biological filtration, better to add to water then add to tub/bowl), it does say that it will require agitation when added.
instructions here.. Treatment with itraconazole cured a captive collection of frogs, axolotls and Kaup’s caecilians of chytridiomycosis - Conservation Evidence

 

[OwlGirlOco]

haven't used it myself but the directions are to use 0.01% for 30 minutes every five days for a total of four treatments (it does say to add straight to tank but that will damage the biological filtration, better to add to water then add to tub/bowl), it does say that it will require agitation when added.
instructions here.. Treatment with itraconazole cured a captive collection of frogs, axolotls and Kaup’s caecilians of chytridiomycosis - Conservation Evidence

Thank you so much for all of you help, but how do I get him to eat? I'm going to try mealworms tomorrow, and maybe look for some earthworms outside.

 

[wolfen]

the best bet would be to use bloodworm as it seems to be a favourite food for axolotls, if you are going to feed live mealworms make sure to crush the head to prevent internal damage.

 

[OwlGirlOco]

the best bet would be to use bloodworm as it seems to be a favourite food for axolotls, if you are going to feed live mealworms make sure to crush the head to prevent internal damage.

I don't know where to get blood worms but I'll look into it. I've been cutting the mealworms in half, fo you think that would suffice? Or should I be worried about internal damage too? Generally they mostly stop moving after I cut them in half.

 

[wolfen]

should be fine provided the mealworm they are dead, due to their hard exoskeleton be careful not to feed them if they are visibly unwell as they may have difficulty digesting them which could cause a blockage.