Should I be adding more ammonia?

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Should I be adding more dr Tim’s ammonia?
My ammonia is currently .50-1ppm (can’t tell) and my nitrite is at .25 after doing a 25% water change due to my pH being 6.0 (it’s 6.6 atm. With no fish in there the pH keeps dropping). I’m scared to go to 2-4ppm ammonia because what if it doesn’t come down? It’s been 2 weeks struggling with this cycle.
So far I’ve added 10 drops of ammonia on 9/18 and on 9/19 I added 6. To me the color still looks the same despite adding the 6 extra drops.
I’m aware of what the instructions say (4 drops per gallon which I read was a very horrible mistake)
 
if the tank is cycling do not do water change unless nitrates are 110ppm or higher, do not let the ph drop below 7, use bicarbonate of soda to increase ph to 7.4-7.6 (may need to also add bicarbonate of soda when you have cycled your tank as low ph/kh will crash the cycle)
do not do a water change to improve the ph as your water seems to be soft, look into using holtfreters to improve water conditions, info here.. Axolotls - Requirements & Water Conditions in Captivity
if possible test kh and gh.
if the tank/filter can't remove ammonia that is added to the tank it will be no good placing an axolotl into the tank, the tank/filter needs to be cycled and able to remove 4ppm ammonia per day before it is suitable.
cycling an axolotl tank is a long and sometimes frustrating process.
 
if the tank is cycling do not do water change unless nitrates are 110ppm or higher, do not let the ph drop below 7, use bicarbonate of soda to increase ph to 7.4-7.6 (may need to also add bicarbonate of soda when you have cycled your tank as low ph/kh will crash the cycle)
do not do a water change to improve the ph as your water seems to be soft, look into using holtfreters to improve water conditions, info here.. Axolotls - Requirements & Water Conditions in Captivity
if possible test kh and gh.
if the tank/filter can't remove ammonia that is added to the tank it will be no good placing an axolotl into the tank, the tank/filter needs to be cycled and able to remove 4ppm ammonia per day before it is suitable.
cycling an axolotl tank is a long and sometimes frustrating process.
I have two of these in my tank… now realizing I should probably only have 1 considering it cycles 40 gallons
In 1 filter I have 2 sponges, activated carbon and denitrate.
In the other one I have 2 sponges, activated carbon, fluval ammonia remover and biomax.
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although there is limit to how small a filter to use in an axolotl tank there is no limits as to how large or how many, the main thing is to make sure that the flow doesn't disturb your axolotl much, use the spray bars and have them directed towards the glass.
activated carbon isn't required during cycling but has to be replaced monthly to be effective.
ammonia remover isn't required whilst cycling as it will remove vital ammonia, it also needs either replacing or recharging.
the sponges are mechanical filtration and removes debris and will house some of your bacteria colony.
biomax will house the majority of your bacteria colony.
denitrate will also house some of your bacteria colony, under anoxic conditions nitrate consuming bacteria will also form (ammonia and nitrite consuming bacteria are aerobic and require oxygen to survive, nitrate consuming bacteria are anaerobic and get their oxygen from the nitrates)
 
although there is limit to how small a filter to use in an axolotl tank there is no limits as to how large or how many, the main thing is to make sure that the flow doesn't disturb your axolotl much, use the spray bars and have them directed towards the glass.
activated carbon isn't required during cycling but has to be replaced monthly to be effective.
ammonia remover isn't required whilst cycling as it will remove vital ammonia, it also needs either replacing or recharging.
the sponges are mechanical filtration and removes debris and will house some of your bacteria colony.
biomax will house the majority of your bacteria colony.
denitrate will also house some of your bacteria colony, under anoxic conditions nitrate consuming bacteria will also form (ammonia and nitrite consuming bacteria are aerobic and require oxygen to survive, nitrate consuming bacteria are anaerobic and get their oxygen from the nitrates)
Soooo does that mean the filter is good??
The activated carbon came with the filters. I do change them every 6 months like the instructions say
 
the filters are fine.
 
So my tank cycle just crashed them. I added quick start for the bacteria 2 days ago, stability yesterday and still nothing. I think the bacteria died off when the ammonia hit 0 for 3 days.
the filters are fine.
 
0 ammonia = zero food for bacteria, low ph = reduced food for bacteria, this is also why it important to dose the tank if there are no animals in it so that the bacteria are fed.
 
0 ammonia = zero food for bacteria, low ph = reduced food for bacteria, this is also why it important to dose the tank if there are no animals in it so that the bacteria are fed.
I was purchasing dr Tim’s ammonia during this time frame.
 
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